While It’s a Wonderful Life is by far my Christmas movie of choice — to the extent that I could probably provide the entire dialogue alongside the black-and-white screenplay on mute — the movie Elf has crept into my holiday expectations thanks to the Miller family influence. Although close to opposites in vibes, plot, and music, both films are extremely quotable. 

I don’t know how many times I’ve hollered, “My mouth’s bleeding, Bert! My mouth’s bleeding!” and, “I hope you find your dad!” 

But this week I’ve been thinking less of Zuzu’s petals and more of the seven levels of the candy cane forest. Perhaps because I’m still in the Kansas milieu and my kids have already been brought a “candy cane forest hot chocolate,” and I won’t watch George and Mary until next week with my parents. And perhaps because my kids, though also loving to decorate the Christmas tree and belt carols at the top of their lungs like the Bailey children, could also imitate Buddy the elf and his “four main food groups: candy, candy canes, candy corn, and syrup!” 

In general, or as the liturgical calendar would call it, “ordinary time,” the kids really aren’t too bad. Brian and I were shaking our heads in amusement the other day at Kiah refusing to eat barely anything at a Christmas party dinner…except for at least five servings of green beans. The next day she would not stop eating cooked broccoli, and the next she sequestered herself in her chair in the living room with a bag of baby carrots. 

All that said, we’re not offering them platefuls of skittles and chocolate kisses, so their choices would change if the availability did. Either of the kids can easily identify the slightest rustle of a candy wrapper at a thousand yards; they’ve both been known to gradually fall prey to the temptation of candy they promised not to eat…first clutching tightly, then unwrapping a corner “just to look at it,” then surreptitiously licking-“but-not-eating!” it. 

Since we have to deal with this sugar obsession, we figure we may as well use it to our advantage when possible. Don’t get up until your light turns green: have an m&m. Finish all your chores: get a piece of gum. Eat all your breakfast on Sunday: allowed to accept a gummy bear from the candy man at church. So on and so forth. There is nothing as motivating as candy.

Apparently we are not the only adults willing to spur our children on to good works with the incentive of a little sugar. In fact, the most iconic Christmas candy is said to have been created with a similar motive. Even German kids in 1670 were susceptible to sweets, as a wise choirmaster knew when he handed out sugar sticks to help keep little mouths and hands quiet during a Nativity service. Perhaps the sticks were bent to look like shepherds’ staffs in honor of the season, or at least to make them “more religious” in symbolism. 

These canes made of candy were all white for a few centuries, even fifty years after they were introduced to the US in 1847 by a German-Swedish immigrant, but by the 20th century candy canes picked up their now-crucial red and white stripes. Many people continue to point to more inherent Christmas symbolism, with the shape representing a J for Jesus and his white purity and red blood of salvation, while some people care more about debating which end to start enjoying (about ¾ say on the straight end). 

But it can’t be debated that candy canes are still remarkably popular and intend to stay so — over 1 ½ billion are produced every year! I don’t often eat them plain, but I love peppermint-flavored things, so I pilfered all of ours to crush up and use in other treats. 

The candy canes weren’t safe hanging on our Christmas tree anyway; Kiah was either going to eat them all or pull the tree down in the process. 

Candy Cane Ice Cream

I am always so disappointed that candy cane ice cream is a seasonal flavor — I want peppermint all year round! Here I am, contributing to the problem by making and sharing this recipe the week before Christmas, but now you can hang onto it and make it anytime you want. As long as you can hide a few candy canes from marauding children. 

Prep tips: finding the right balance of strong enough peppermint flavor without tasting too close to toothpaste can be a little tricky, so I recommend you start on the lower range of peppermint oil and then taste before adding more. 

• 2 ounces cream cheese, room temp

• ¼ teaspoon salt

• 1 ½ tablespoon cornstarch

• 4 cups combination of milk & cream

• ½-¾ cup sugar

• 1-4 drops of peppermint oil, to taste

• ½ cup or so crushed candy canes

Whip the cream cheese with the salt until smooth; mix in the cornstarch and ½ cup of the milk. Set aside.

Heat remaining milk/cream with the sugar; boil for a few minutes. Add cream cheese mixture, simmer just to thicken slightly, then let cool. Whisk in peppermint oil and about half the peppermints. Chill overnight. Freeze according to your ice cream maker’s method, adding in the remaining candy canes as it churns. 

Lettuce Eat Local is a weekly local foods column by Amanda Miller, who lives in rural Reno County on the family dairy farm with her husband and two small children. She seeks to help build connections through food with her community, the earth, and the God who created it all. Send feedback and recipe ideas tohyperpeanutbutter@gmail.com.